Tuesday, August 1, 2006

A Honeymoon in Tahiti

In a travel magazine, one day, I saw pictures of these incredible islands with ancient volcanoes covered by tropical rainforest, surrounded by turquoise ocean waters – that’s when I discovered Tahiti.

The moment I saw the pictures, I knew this would be the perfect destination for a honeymoon.

Vancouver – Papeete: Flights
We checked in at Vancouver Airport 90 min. prior to departure for the first leg of our trip: Vancouver to Los Angeles on Air Canada. After making it through US Customs & Immigration we witnessed first hand how disorganized Air Canada’s ground operation really is.

First, our gate was changed; then, there was no plane, and when the plane finally arrived, after passengers had deplaned and the cleaning crew did their thing, we finally left with a delay of at least 45 min. cutting our connection in Los Angeles in half.

Upon arrival in Los Angeles, we were all set for a mad dash through LAX to catch our Air New Zealand flight to Papeete. To our surprise, however, Air New Zealand’s departure gates were right next to our arrival gate. So we were literally ushered from one plane to the next without any time to spare as the other flight was already boarding. Once onboard, my husband slipped me his Business Class boarding pass and whispered that he would fly in the back. Lots of brownie points for him!!!

Air New Zealand’s Business Class is absolutely superb. Dinner on board was excellent but most of all, I really liked the entertainment center which is installed next to every seat: Your own little monitor with remote control will give you access to approx. 8 different movies at any time during the flight. Furthermore, Air New Zealand’s incredible foresight in providing ear plugs in their business class amenity kit also deserves special mentioning. They single handedly saved my sanity on that night flight as it seemed half the other passengers in that business class cabin were passionately giving into their snoring habits.

We arrived in Papeete as scheduled at 03:00 am.



Papeete – Moorea: Transfer

Papeete’s airport is very small, possibly comparable to Abbotsford or Bellingham. Upon arrival of an international flight at 03:00 am, however, everything is open: Greeters welcome people with single orchids, flower leis, and ukulele music. The tourist office and a currency exchange booth open briefly for approx. 1 hr. and we found out that the first ferry to Moorea leaves at 05:00 am and approx. every hour thereafter.
We had breakfast at the airport and took one of the local cabs downtown to the ferry terminal (cab was approx. $ 15.00; the ferry ride to Moorea approx. $ 10.00 per person.). The ferry left right on time and we enjoyed the 25 min. crossing to Moorea. The ocean did get a little rough though at about the half way mark and quite a few passengers reached for the little white paperbags…..
Club Med Moorea

In Moorea we had no problem at all finding a local taxi to take us to Club Med, about 30 min. drive away on the southern shore.
The drive was very scenic and the taxi driver friendly and talkative (French, of course), stopping here and there for us to take pictures. There is only one small little road encircling the whole island with little quaint houses dotted alongside. Immediately behind the road the tropical rainforest starts and covers the whole island completely. Our cab fare, by the way, was approx. $ 50.00.

Accommodations
At Club Med Moorea we were greeted with a glass of mango juice and subsequently driven to our “fare”. The fares are quite spacious and clean, but very Spartan, without any air conditioning – fan only, TV or telephone. Instead, you do have absolute serenity, peace and quiet, and a little deck complete with chairs and a small table to enjoy the beautiful surroundings.

Food
As we were very hungry, we proceeded immediately to the main restaurant for lunch and all my good intentions to stick to my diet crumbled within minutes. Who could resist row after row of delicious, sumptuous foods smelling so enticing and looking so nicely presented?

At breakfast, we had the choice between all kinds of dried fruit, fruit compote, vanilla and chocolate flan, bread pudding, rice pudding, fresh baked baguette, croissants, chocolate croissants, brioche, at least 15 jams, yogurt, fresh fruit, fruit salad, Japanese breakfast, eggs any kind, omelettes, bacon, sausages, French toast, American pancakes, and French crepes.
Lunch and dinner were usually along the same lines with an endless choice of salads, freshly grilled chicken, hamburgers, steaks, sausages, and all kinds of beef stews; a Japanese section with sushi, teriyaki dishes, tempura, noodles and rice; an Italian section with spaghetti, lasagna and usually at least two more Italian noodle dishes varying every day. Needless to say, my husband was in heaven.
Draft beer for lunch and dinner as well as French country wines were available (red, white or rose).
There is a Club Med G.O. on “hostess duty” when one enters the restaurant. He or she will seat you at a table of eight, where other guests speak your language. This way, we got to know a lot of our fellow vacationers very quickly. They came from all over the world: USA, New Zealand, Australia, Japan, as well as France, Italy, Germany, and Ireland. We also got to have some meals with the G.O.’s themselves as they constantly mingle with the G.M.’s and really try to get to know you. Both my husband and I enjoyed this aspect very much, as it added a more personal flair to our vacation.
For those guests wanting a little more privacy, there is an a-la-carte restaurant situated right by the ocean. Reservations are a must and the food is outstanding with a distinct French flair. At this restaurant one can also purchase premium French wines.
Beaches
Club Med Moorea does not have a pool, simply because it does not need one. The beaches of Tahiti are the best I have every seen: Forget the Caribbean, forget Hawaii, forget Cancun!!! What makes them so special is not the crystal clear, bathtub like water, or the fact that all kinds of tropical fish, including stingray come right to the beach; it is the fact that these islands are atolls.
The definition for atoll in the Webster’s dictionary is “a coral island coasting of a reef surrounding a lagoon”.

Outside the reef, the ocean swells are fairly high and comparable with those in Hawaii. However, the lagoon has hardly any waves whatsoever, nor riptides or dangerous currents. One can splish and splash to one’s heart’s desire without any second thought. Naturally, these gorgeous beaches are lined with miles and miles of white, powdery sand and lots of palm trees offer shady spots to relax.
Club Med Moorea has a beachfront of about 400 m, so it is very easy to find a secluded spot.

Activities
Sports are big at Club Med. And I mean B I G. In Moorea, you have the choice of waterskiing, snorkeling, scuba diving, beach volley ball, ping pong, gymnastics, glass bottom boat trips, tennis,water aerobics, stretch & strength classes and much more.

My dive crazy husband, of course, did go out diving twice a day and could not get enough. According to him, scuba diving in Moorea is among the best in the world with unlimited visibility and abundant sea life. He reported moray eels, lots of stingrays and lots of blacktip sharks. The sharks did make him a little nervous at first, but eventually he did get used to them. He encountered them on every single dive that took place outside the reef.
With regards to other activities, guests can rent bicycles at the Club, or little scooter cars from Hertz Rent-A-Car, directly across the street. Or book one of the many excursions offered at the Club’s excursion desk, such as a Jeep Safari to the interior of the island; shark feeding; a visit to an ancient Tahitian village, etc..

Entertainment
All of the excursions get back in time for guests to have a shower and relax a little before dinner. At happy hour, one of the GO’s organized a daily game of some sort at the main bar, which was always great fun, and around 9:30 pm the main show started. This show varied every day, from comedy to a lip sync competition, to an Irish “river dance” style production, to a talent show put on by guests, to an outstanding Tahitian dance show. Most evenings it was the GO’s of the village performing on stage and one has to bear in mind that they are not professional dancers or singers.

The shows were always great fun, very entertaining, and the GO’s would ensure that everybody understood what was going on by constantly talking in at least two languages almost simultaneously. Once the main show finished, guests were invited to the main bar of more entertainment, usually karaoke, or a singer, or some sort of another game. Around 11:00 pm the disco opened, which is the only one on Moorea, and one could dance the night away right until the wee hours of the morning.

Moorea – Bora Bora:

After a taxi ride back to airport, we boarded our Air Tahiti flight to Bora Bora. Please do not confuse Air Tahiti’s standard with the usual service we Canadians are used to: We used them twice, and both times the flights were delayed over 30 minutes without any explanation given. Their check-in agent in Moorea got almost angry because my husband dared to disturb his lunch to ask very politely when we might expect the aircraft to be ready for boarding. Once we were in the air, however, the flight was smooth and we landed safely in Bora Bora about 60 minutes later.


Bora Bora

James Mitchener’s enchanted island of Bali-Hai: “the most beautiful island in the world; pearl of the South Pacific”. These are just a few statements made about this magical island – and they are all true:
Upon arrival, you are greeted by majestic volcanoes, their tops covered by thin clouds, and a lagoon shimmering brilliantly in twenty different shades of blue.

One finds oneself immediately under the spell of the irresistible beauty of Bora Bora.
The airport is located on one of the little islets (called “motu”) which outline the lagoon. From there, visitors can take the Air Tahiti ferry to Vaitape, the main village on Bora Bora. The ferry ride is free. Or, for guests staying at the more upscale resorts such as the Meridian, the Bora Bora Lagoon Resort and Pearl Beach Resort; these hotels will send motorboats to meet you at the airport upon arrival.

All other hotels, including Club Med, will pick up guests from the ferry pier in Vaitape. If you are booked “land only”, as we were, Club Med will tag on approx. $ 17.00 p.pers. for roundtrip transfers.

Club Med Bora Bora:

Club Med Bora Bora is located in a private bay surrounded by lush gardens and an incredible beach which is not shared with any other hotel. This Club Med is rated higher than the one in Moorea and also has a very different ambiance to it. PRIVACY is the big word here. Nobody will introduce you to your fellow GM’s, so it is up to you to meet new people – or not. The GO’s are, of course, approachable; but they tend to blend into the background more. There are no children here, merely very few families with teenaged kids.
Accommodations
Rooms are very modern, with balcony, telephone, air conditioning and a fantastic walk-in shower. Our “garden view” studio is located on the upper floor of a two-story building with a wonderful view of the lagoon. Club Med Bora Bora also offers oceanfront bungalows, some of them are actually somewhat comparable with over water bungalows at other hotels.

Food
Getting back to the eating thing again: The food at Club Med Bora Bora is even better than at Moorea. The discriminating taste of worldly gourmets is catered to through meals such as lobster, oysters St. Jacques, rack of lamb, foie en pommes et calvados, frog legs, etc. etc.. Every Tuesday and Friday, Club Med offers a lunch BBQ on a motu directly across the lagoon. This is an absolute must. The water is so incredible and one can walk for miles and miles along the sandy powdery beach. Or, play a little bit of “survivor” yourself and climb a coconut tree for fresh coconut (my husband did !!!).

Entertainment & Activities
The shows in the evening are of the same caliber as on Moorea. However, there is hardly any other entertainment going on besides the nightly shows and there is no disco.

Sportswise, Club Med Bora Bora offers windsurfing, catamaran sailing on small two persons catamarans, kayaks, tennis, beach volleyball (if anyone shows up), jetskis, snorkeling and swimming. For excursions, one can rent again the little two person scooters or bikes. There is also a shuttle into Vaitape twice a day.
Other excursions offered are a helicopter ride of the island, shark feeding, horseback riding, scuba diving (through a local diving outlet) and catamaran outings.
As a matter of fact, my husband and I decided to take a full day excursion on a catamaran exploring the lagoon of Bora Bora. First we were snorkeling at a spot known for manta rays, and we really did come upon two of these graceful creatures. It was quite a magical moment.Afterward, we dropped anchor at one of the motus for a wonderful BBQ lunch followed by a stop to feed the local stingrays. Within minutes of the boat’s arrival, there were so many of them that one had to watch one’s step to avoid actually stepping on a stingray.
Our stay on Bora Bora went much too quickly and in looking back what I enjoyed the most was the nice restaurant situated right next to the beach. This island is absolutely perfect for honeymoon couples seeking serenity and intimacy in an incredibly romantic setting.

Papeete – Los Angeles & Vancouver

Our flights back to reality, Los Angeles that is, with Air New Zealand were absolutely fine. My husband enjoyed his a little bit more, than I did mine, as he got the Business Class seat this time. I was amazed, however, to find footrests even in Economy Class and this enabled me to sleep at least a little bit, as we had a 03:00 am departure from Papeete.
Back in Vancouver, I am thinking often of the wonderful time I had in Tahiti and I cannot wait until the day I will return.

Travel Tips

If you plan on going, here’s a few things to consider:

  • Valid Canadian passport is needed for entry into Tahiti.
  • Local currency is the French Pacific Franc (CA$ 100.00 =approx. XPF 8,000).
  • Official language is French, however, English is spoken in all resort areas.
  • Just as in France, e v e r y t h i n g closes for lunch from 12:00 pm – 2:00 pm with the exception of restaurants.
  • Tahiti is in the same time zone as Hawaii, i.e. 3 hrs. behind PST.
  • There are lots of airlines flying from Los Angeles: Air New Zealand; Air Tahiti Nui, Air France, and AOM French Airlines.
  • Best deal is a Club Med package as it includes food and beverages as well which can be quite expensive.
  • If you go for scuba diving, book your dives when you book your Club Med. It will save you money and your space is guaranteed.
  • There are no poisonous snakes or spiders in Tahiti.
  • Locals are very friendly to visitors and there is not a lot of crime in Tahiti. However, it is recommended that visitors do use their safes in their hotel rooms and please, do avoid quiet side streets in Papeete at night.
  • Practically all local doctors and dentists have studied in France and many of them speak English.
  • Tipping is considered offensive in Tahiti, as hospitality is almost sacred to the locals.
  • When using Aeroplan points one must book at least 12 months ahead to get the seats.
  • Contrary to what is stated on the Internet: Canadian bank cards do not work from Tahitian ATMs. Local banks, however, will be happy to give you an advance on your creditcard.
  • Best luxury hotel on Bora Bora: Le Meridien
  • Worst luxury hotel on Bora Bora: Sofitel Marmara (has “Overwater Bungalows” situated right next to the main street of the island – same goes for some garden view units at the Hotel Bora Bora.